[Herald Interview] Social media era creates more challenges for pastry chefs

Julien Perrinet, Hyatt’s executive pastry chef for the Asia Pacific region based at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, aims to offer a stunning gastronomic experience to those with a sweet tooth at an upcoming chefs’ collaboration between Park Hyatt Seoul and Park Hyatt Tokyo.

The French-born Perrinet, 42, has honed his pastry skills across multiple countries -- France, Canada, Qatar, China, Singapore, India and more -- and did not hesitate to share some of his concerns before showcasing desserts to Korean guests, whom he considers to be very knowledgeable about food, to have high expectations in terms of quality and to avoid desserts that are “too sweet.”

“I felt that Asian guests are very careful about what they eat. Less-sugar-contained desserts are not only a trend,” Perrinet said in an interview at Park Hyatt Seoul in Gangnam, southern Seoul, Wednesday.

“When I first learned pastry, for instance, I added 450 grams of sugar for a cake. It had its reason like keeping the product longer. But, now, I keep the number to 100. The cakes are all made daily,” Perrinet explained. "This is a huge change."

Many pastry chefs, including Perrinet, are studying hard and creating techniques to fill the gap created by subtracting 350 grams of sugar to make a cake that is not only healthier, but also rich in flavor to keep even the pickiest diners happy.

Perrinet emphasized that all the work in the kitchen is also business.

“For a pastry chef, especially those who are working in a hotel, creating sweets is not only about satisfying those with a sweet tooth, but also presenting something to feast the guests’ eyes (on),” the 12-year veteran pastry chef explained.

“We are living in the social media era, where many things are shared on Instagram,” he said, adding that creating a visually pleasing dish is slightly different from food plating.

Ranging from the colors to the display of ingredients, a pastry chef might want to consider how the finished dish would look in a photo.

“This, of course, is not the chef’s top priority,” Perrinet noted. “But, I think people cannot deny its importance, which leads to yet another concern for pastry chefs.”

Perrinet shared that he always pushes himself to bring out the best to please guests.

“Many social media photos are perfect in many ways. They are sometimes exaggerated too. But, visitors come to taste our cakes after watching an online post or an amazing dessert photograph. If we don’t put our best, it will only disappoint the guests, making them to feel betrayed,” he said.

“And even a slight mistake is critical to pastry, which often requires a long time of preparation. We need to be alert and always put in utmost effort,” he said.

Perrinet highlighted that it is critical to stick to the basics as well.

“Those who are overly sensitive to the social media are sometimes compelled to create something unique, making them forget about the basics and combine ingredients in a strange way,” Perrinet said.

He shared that both the pastry chefs and guests appreciate something with the right classic base.

"Having solid basic techniques means more than one might think in our social media era,” Perrinet added.