Seoul Fashion Week’s first day heavy on contrasts, harmonies

Seoul Fashion Week returned Tuesday, with contrasts and harmonies taking center stage on the runway where 21 brands are expected to present their spring-summer 2025 collections over the next five days.

First off was Youser, a unisex brand launched in 2011 that prides itself on blurring the boundary between deconstruction and minimalism. The result was a relaxed silhouette highlighted by pleats and tucks, which render the collection playful and three-dimensional, according to designer Lee Moo-yeol.

Varying colors and textures, alongside pockets and embroidery, added to the depth of what could have been an otherwise monotonous lineup.

“Every element of clothing functions like a painting technique,” Lee said of his latest creations, likening them to a canvas.

Next up was Ceeann, led by designer Lee Cee-ann who identifies with dualism -- a merging of ideas and trends, like masculinity and femininity.

A selection of bodycon pieces and pieces with revealing cut-outs for womenswear was followed by masculine silhouettes with feminine tailoring for menswear. Chest-baring tops were paired with wide satin trousers. White and cream anchored the color palette.

Among the models on the runway were some older women, a stark contrast to earlier catwalks. They posed against the backdrop of throbbing EDM beats that played up the punk exuberance and escapism of the collection. “A free-spirited Bohemian message,” Ceeann’s Lee said of her collection.

“It is now time to set sail on a true journey. … Everyone’s journey toward one’s destination guided by their own North Star,” Lee added.

Sustainability, a recurring theme of the five-day event which the organizers prioritize, could not be ignored during the presentations.

Ulkin, a brand known for upcycling and promoting social values as well as creative aesthetics, had models plod down the runway sporting oversized jackets and blazers in a steady parade of dark colors. Live music performances followed the show.