‘Hansik’ needs to focus on fostering future talent: culinary experts

The future of hansik, or Korean food, needs increased focus on the training and nurturing of future talent in the industry, according to culinary experts attending a food symposium in Seoul on Friday.

Yang Jong-jip, a professor at the Culinary Institute of America, said the industry needs to approach the nurturing of talent from an institutional and educational level, during Hansik Conference 2024 at Samcheonggak in Seoul on Friday.

Held for the second time, the annual hansik symposium was jointly hosted by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, and the Korean Food Promotion Institution.

“CIA has been seeing a large number of Korean students entering the school each year. But despite such a number, from an educator’s point of view, the school doesn’t offer a specific course in which the Korean students can learn about the potential of Korean food,” said Yang, giving an example of how the culinary institute's concentration programs span four categories: European, Japanese, Asian and African.

In order to shape the future of Korean gastronomy, Yang stressed that the sustainability of Korean food’s future starts with offering systematic, educational support to young talent.

Other culinary experts echoed Yang’s views.

“The fact that me and Atomix chef Park Jung-hyun are able to be in Korea is thanks to the team in New York. It simply tells how important it is to nurture the talent,” said Ellia Park, co-CEO of Atomix and co-founder and CEO of NA:EUN Hospitality.

Park Jung-hyun, Atomix owner and executive chef in New York, said there is a long way to go for Korean food on the global stage.

“Compared to when we first opened Atomix seven years ago, the reception of Korean food has drastically changed. But when you think of it, in the US, people consider Japanese cuisine as daily food. But Korean food is still regarded as something you would only go and eat with someone interested in Korean culture,” said Park.

“Offering people abroad the opportunity to experience Korean food and learn more about the cuisine will lower the barrier of Korean food and further develop the sustainability of Korean food globally,” he added.

Jimmy Lim, chef-owner of three-Michelin-starred JL Studio, said he has been looking for ways to connect more with young chefs. He was trained in Singapore but his restaurant is located in Taiwan.

“For two years, I’ve been teaching culinary skills at a local school for young talents. What makes me feel touched is when young chefs come and say that they want to learn how they can shape cuisine and apply that to their own methods when they open up a restaurant. That makes me feel that I want to become their role model,” Lim told the audience.

“For me, keeping authenticity and traditional elements are really important. Because without the base, you cannot do the high-level building. What they call the bridge to the modern language, the language to speak to the modern palette of the people, we need to know both the old and the new,” Lim added.

Meanwhile, Kang Min-goo, a chef from the two-Michelin-starred contemporary Korean restaurant Mingles, touched upon the creativity of using Korean traditional "jang" — or fermented paste using soy sauce or peppers — in various dishes.

He has recently published a book titled "Jang," providing in-depth knowledge on Korean traditional paste making.

Kang stressed his belief that if Korean jang is applied to a wide range of dishes and understood from a broader context, it will gain recognition on the global stage.

“From foreigners’ point of view, jang is something that’s hard to interpret, what kind of taste or character it has. So the better way to approach it is this: apply a little amount of it to desserts, such as mixing gochujang with chocolate or putting doenjang in yogurt,” King told the audience.

Kang’s Mingles has most recently ranked 13th on the 2024 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list released in March this year.