Walking down the streets and alleyways of post-war Korea

Following is part of a series exploring unique museums, collections and the passionate collectors behind them. ― Ed.


The mid-20th century was a turbulent era for Korean culture and history.

The suffering of Japan’s 35-year colonial rule was followed by the chaos of the Korean War, which resulted in the death of 5 million soldiers and civilians. After the three-year war ended in 1953, the nation was ravaged by widespread poverty and famine.

For those who have ever wondered what it was like walking down the streets of post-war Korea, the Museum of Modern History of Korea gives a taste of what life was like during the 1960s.

“Socks and rubber shoes with holes in them were mended many times over and put on again and the goal in life was eating three meals a day … we endured unbearable tribulations and tough challenges,” said museum director Choi Bong-kwon.

Most museums house collections of miniature display models hidden behind glass cases with long, written descriptions on the wall explaining the history of how life once was. This museum, on the other hand, allows visitors to experience this feeling first hand by allowing people to actually walk down the reconstructed streets and narrow alleyways modeled after life in Korea during the 60s.

Choi has spent the last 40 years dumpster diving and scavenging through secondhand stores, collecting random artifacts ― from tools, books and magazines to ordinary households items ― to design a museum that recreates the life that was lived by our elders.

The Museum of Modern History of Korea provides the older generation with a moment to reminisce and the younger the opportunity to understand and be conscious of the hardships and struggles that their grandparents suffered a mere 50 years ago.

“I wanted to show people our daily lives, how we used to live,” said Choi. “We were poor, we couldn’t eat, and I wanted to show this aspect.”

The differences of Korea then and now are night and day. Upon entering the museum, one is hit with a sense of awe, as the sounds of Korean oldies music playing in the background. There is even a timeworn, rustic scent that permeates throughout the place.

The museum houses replications of old-time super markets, a barbershop, hardware and garment stores, a pawn shop where watches once went for one or two dollars, cafes where the coffee sold for just a nickel and restaurants had menus written on a piece of cloth hung on the wall.

“Young people used to come here in these small ramen shops to go on dates,” Choi smiled. “It was the place to be.”

Walking further along down the alleyways one can a find neighborhood of small houses riddled with cobwebs, clotheslines hanging outside where the laundry hanging out was full of holes and patches. Visitors can even walk into a tiny, cramped apartment, where the restroom has no toilet, just a hole in the floor, and old newspapers were used as tissue paper. Everything in the museum is depicted in such meticulous detail.

The reproduction of an elementary school classroom has a proverb written on the chalkboard reminding students of the importance of saving and spending money wisely to live a life without regret. Some of the mannequin students even have pieces of tissue stuffed in their noses.

“There was no medicine at that time,” said Choi. “So many kids suffered flu-like symptoms.”

The museum also has a section that displays retro-looking magazines, calendars and advertisements from the 70s and 80s. A group of elderly women gazed in reminiscence at the exhibition of old magazines with past Korean celebrities gracing most of the covers.

“Look at that. Women back then, now that was true beauty. Not like today,” they said to each other.

Park Un-sun, the museum manager, recalls visitors leaving the museum and sharing the memories conjured up during their visit.

“We had a foreign visitor once who had been in Korea during the 60s and he came here and said, ‘Wow, this is amazing, it is exactly how I remembered everything,’” she shared.

“This is all trash, there’s not a single thing of value here,” director Choi said. “But still, it really makes you realize how poorly we once lived. It is by remembering this moment that we can contribute to the understanding of modern society.”

The museum is located at the Heyri Art Valley in Paju next to Gate 4 and is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. General admission is 6,000 won for adults, 4,000 won for youths and 2,500 won for children.

By Julie Jackson (juliejackson@heraldcorp.com)