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[Weekender] Middle-aged men's fashion loosens up

What was once a staple outfit for middle-aged men -- dress shirts and stoic suits -- is now considered outdated as they opt for a less formal look.

Nowadays, it is more common to see men in their 40s wearing sweatshirts or crew neck knits, slacks and sneakers as they go to work or spend a day with their kids.

The transformation of the traditional “ajeossi” style is now widely referred to as the “ajae” phenomenon. Both words refer to middle-aged men, with the former carrying an outdated connotation, while the latter suggests a younger and friendlier image.

According to the fashion industry, demand for formal suits that look conservative or even authoritarian are being replaced by a new appetite for a younger and fashionable look.

“We have cut back on overseas orders for classic suits significantly -- which was unimaginable just three years ago. We instead expanded orders for casual looks such sweatshirts, round neck T-shirts, crew neck knits and turtle neck knits,” said a merchandiser at G. Street 494 Homme at Galleria Department Store in Apgujeong-dong, southern Seoul. G. Street 494 is a select shop for men that imports high-end foreign brands.

Moorer outter (Galleria G Street 494 Homme)
Moorer outter (Galleria G Street 494 Homme)


A popular look sought by male customers is the “layered” style, according to a store employee. For incstance, a padded vest would be layered over a knit cardigan and a round neck T-shirt. For bottoms, customers prefer slacks and sneakers.

“Another noticeable trend is they are choosing brighter colors and lighter materials, which make them look much younger,” he said.

Maestro, a local male fashion brand owned by LF, has introduced its 2016 autumn/winter collection featuring knits with brighter colors and patterns.

“One of easy ways to look younger is to wear bright colors as inner wears,” said Lee Ji-eun, a creative director at LF. “Also, another tip is to wear clothes that fit the body shape. Most middle-aged men tend to shun tight clothes on the excuse of potbellies, but they don’t need do. Well-fitted clothes make you look more in shape and taller.”

Instead of two-tuck pants that used to be popular among men to hide their abdomen, the director recommended denim pants with no tuck. For jackets, Lee suggested longer ones with tighter waistlines.

Kumkang, a local brand for dress shoes, has also come up with casual shoes for men in their midlife years, which go better with the aforementioned brighter knits, slacks and padding vests, in light of the ajae trend. 

Clarks shoes (Kumkang)
Clarks shoes (Kumkang)


The shoemaker recommended Clarks’ Unstructured shoes, which the company imports from the UK, featuring a hybrid style between dress shoes and sneakers.

“Shoes can be an accessory item that can complete a new image of casualness for men,” said Kang Seong-hee, chief designer at Kumkang. “The key to the new ajae style would be looking modern and casual while keeping maturity.” 

By Song Su-hyun (song@heraldcorp.com)
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