South Korea’s northernmost island surprisingly peaceful

BAENGNYEONGDO ISLAND ― Baengnyeongdo Island is approximately 226 km off the coast of Incheon, in Ongjin County and stands as the northernmost territory of South Korea. Located near the Northern Limit Line ― a demarcation line in the Yellow Sea separating the South and the North ― the remote island is actually north of the Demarcation Line and at its closest, is only a mere 13 km from North Korea’s mainland.

On an island where the general population is outnumbered by the number of military stationed in the area, with around 5,400 citizens and 6,000 ROK soldiers, Baengnyeongdo Island may not seem like the most ideal tour destination: However, its proximately to potential danger is an experience in and of itself.

“It’s a thrill,” said Lee Charm, CEO of the Korea Tourism Organization. “You never know, but the situation with North Korea has been the same for 60 years, so the danger is no bigger now than it was in the last 60 years.”

The adventure of travelling to the island is less about what can be seen and done in the small village, but rather what history of the location represents and the unique feelings conjured up at being at the edge of the two Koreas.

“This is the only place in South Korea where they (citizens) speak with a North Korean accent,” he explained.

On March 26, 2010, a South Korean Navy ship, the ROKS Cheonan, was struck by a torpedo near the island, destroying the vessel and killing 46, nearly half, of all the seamen on board. A multinational investigation conducted by the South Korean government, as well as the United States and the United Kingdom concluded that a torpedo that struck the ship was a North Korean missile. 

Due to its proximity to the North, the island is largely used as a military base for the South and in the unlikely event that tensions should rise between the two Koreas, scattered across the entire island are 26 emergency bunkers equipped to shelter and protect its citizens from a North Korean attack.

“In my personal opinion, I think there is no real danger of the North Koreans doing anything serious that would endanger tourists,” said Lee, who is hoping to promote Baengnyeongdo Island as an up-and-coming tourist destinations for both internationals and nationals.

Aside from its political and military history, Baengnyeongdo Island is also known for its incredible landscape. The port area of Dumujin is a must-see destination for all visitors to the island. This seaside consists of larger than life jagged rock formations that jut out toward the sky. Its name “Dumujin” consists of the Chinese characters “du,” “mu” and “jin,” meaning “heads,” “warriors” and “ferry,” respectively. It is said that the large rock walls here looked like a cluster of heads of brave generals.

The most popular and the most picturesque formation is the aptly named “Elephant Rock,” named so after the formation that appears like the head of a giant elephant. Travelers who wish to visit this site can take a one-hour ferry ride that will guide passengers along the coast, highlighting the most panoramic views of the formations.

“I really enjoyed the beach and being in the boat and seeing the rock formations,” said Fati Aidoo of the Ghanaian Embassy. “Just its design, it was all very nice.” Aidoo came to the island as part of a KTO sponsored trip, inviting various international dignitaries and diplomats living in Korea to tour the area on June 14 and 15.

“I’ve only been to three other places in Korea, and part of me was expecting the same ... but so far, so good.”

Other noteworthy travel sites on Baengnyeongdo Island include the Monument of Prayer for Reunification, honoring the 46 fallen seamen of the Cheonan naval ship incident, overlooking the sea near the spot where the ship was struck.

Simcheonggak Pavilion is also a popular destination for travelers as it tells the legendary folktale of Simcheong, which originated on the island. The story is of a tale of a young girl who sacrifices her life, throwing herself into the raging sea, in hopes of restoring her father’s sight. From the pavilion, one can see a statue of Simcheong with the pavilion located atop of a hill overlooking the Indangsu coast where she was said to have jumped into the sea.

For those looking to experience some of Baengnyeongdo Island’s more natural splendors, Sagot Beach is one of the world’s most rare beaches. Famous for its long coastline of fine sand, Sagot beach is one of only two beaches in the world where diatomite sand ― finely powdered minderals ― exists along the shoreline. The beach was once used as a military landing strip because of the hard characteristics of the sand, and is the world’s only natural airfield where airplanes can take off and land directly on the sand if necessary.

Another seaside desination for travelers looking to relax is Kongdol Beach; a pebble beach with more than 2 kilometers of small, round pebbles that make up this beach’s coastline. Bathing in this beach is said be a very healthy and natural way to cleanse one’s skin.

“The island has all this natural beauty and you have the cleanest air in Korea,” said Lee. “It’s just a nice place to come and relax for a few days.”

Travelers to visit Baengnyeongdo Island can take a passenger ferry departing the Incheon Port International Passenger Terminal. The passenger ferry from Incheon Port to Baengnyeongdo Island takes approximately four to five hours with one-way fare priced at 57,400 won. For more information on Baengnyeongdo Island, visit the Korea Tourism Organization website at http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/index.kto.

By Julie Jackson (juliejackson@heraldcorp.com)