Old colonial period turf morphs into gourmet cul-de-sac

Two eateries set up shop in historic Tongui-dong buildings


Two eateries ― Gastro Tong and Euro Gourmet ― have set up shop on a little tuft of historic turf down in Seoul’s Tongui-dong.

Property owner Cho Kyu-yuen, who converted another space into an atelier called Creer, revealed that her clutch of buildings date back to the Japanese colonial period.

“Gastro Tong and the Creer atelier were once Japanese shrines and Euro Gourmet was once a residence,” said Cho.

“Before these buildings were built, it is believed that this was an area where high-ranking Joseon Dynasty officials resided.”

Now the area has embraced the present by undergoing yet another transformation; this time into a foodie cul-de-sac.

European restaurant, Gastro Tong, opened in July, and deli-eatery Euro Gourmet had its official opening Thursday.

Both spaces maintain only the bare bones of their past, bringing a distinctly Western vibe with both their decor and cuisine.

Gastro Tong owner-chef Roland Hinni, who runs his restaurant with wife Kim Yeong-shim, draws from his Swiss heritage and his background in nouvelle cuisine to create upscale fare. 

Hinni pays close attention to even the smallest details, from warm in-house muesli bread down to the slices of fresh peach and plum adorning his fluffed-up chocolate mousse. Even the coffee that comes as a part of the lunch set is perfect, strong with a caramel-tinged layer of crema.

“We use espresso blend beans from Brazil,” said Kim.

Hinni broke down the message behind their restaurant’s name, revealing that “gastro” stands for “gastronome” (gourmand) and “tong” is the Hanja character for “communication.”

“I think food is communication,” Hinni explained.

So what message do Hinni and team want to pass along?

Judging from the painstaking attention paid to everything ― even the cabbage and carrots for the coleslaw are pickled separately ― the message seems to run something along the lines of “hard work pays off.”

“One of our specialties is braised food,” he explained, adding how there is merit in taking a tough cut of meat and rendering it succulent.

Gastro Tong’s braised veal shank illustrates his point.

After two and a half hours in the oven, the velvety hunk of meat arrives, rich, far from salty, and not so tender it loses its oomph. Rosemary and fennel render the dish pleasantly aromatic, while crisp green beans add crucial crunch.

The atmosphere mirrors Hinni’s approach to food.

Low-lit, high-ceilinged and done up in white and eggshell, this is a restaurant where meals are meant to be savored slowly, with pleasant company and lots of time to spare.

In contrast, at the neighboring Euro Gourmet, Suh Jae-yong and team cater to the rush hour crowd with sandwiches, salads and deli goods.

“We want to attract lots of office workers, people who are busy and want to grab something on the go,” said Suh.

Suh is the managing director of gourmet foodstuff import company Gourmet F&B Korea Co., Ltd.

One day he realized since he was importing all the ingredients needed to run a deli, instead of sticking to being the middle man he might as well get a feel for the market and go into business himself.

Done up in tasteful wood and brick, the 14-seat space exudes a relaxed bistro vibe.

Polenta, couscous, wine vinegars, truffle oils and mustards line the shelves. The display case is stocked to the gills with cheese, cold cuts, foie gras and caviar.

Sandwiches are done up in crusty, toasted baguette and served with mushrooms and a dollop of salad.

Just across the way from Euro Gourmet and adjacent to Gastro Tong stands Creer Atelier, which owner Cho rents out at 25,000 won by the hour to people looking for a space to work, hold meetings or showcase presentations.

Complete with Internet, the former shrine retains its original wood-beamed ceiling yet is perfectly modern in decor, boasting a well-furnished lounge area and a seminar-friendly area.

Details

To get to Gastro Tong, Euro Gourmet and Creer Atelier go to Gyeongbok Palace Subway Station Line 3, Exit 3. Walk straight and turn right into the street right before the Seoul Tongui-dong Post Office.

Gastro Tong

Open from noon to 3 p.m., 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily. Will open Sundays starting Sept. 18.

Lunch sets cost 22,000 won to 46,000 won and include an appetizer, soup or salad, a main dish, dessert and coffee or tea.

Dinner a la carte costs 38,000 won and 66,000 won and comes with daily soup and choice of coffee or tea.

For more information call (02) 730-4162.

Euro Gourmet

Open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Closed Sundays.

Sandwiches cost 8,500 won to 12,000 won. Sandwich and coffee sets cost 15,000 won. Product prices range from around 6,000 won to 150,000 won.

For more information call (02) 739-7711.

Creer Atelier

The atelier is available for rent 24/7. For more information visit creer.kr or call (02) 723-1942.

By Jean Oh (oh_jean@heraldcorp.com)