Wholesome rice

Rice is the star ingredient of celebrity food stylist Hong Shin-ae’s new restaurant, Ssalgage, which translates to “rice store” in English.

At the food show star’s brick-and-mortar spot in Seoul’s Sinsa-dong, freshly milled rice is served up daily with numerous side dishes as part of a set menu.
“We mill the rice ourselves,” said sous chef Kim Jin-woong.

The milling is done at the restaurant because the rice ― a mixture of white and brown rice called “obundomi” ― should ideally be consumed within seven hours of being milled, enabling patrons to enjoy “fresh rice.”

Owner-chef Hong explained that she decided to serve slightly milled brown rice to compromise between basic white rice and the more roughly textured, nutrient-rich brown rice.

“The white rice that we usually eat has had all its germ completely removed and so tastes good, but is also lacking essential fatty acids and other nutrients that are good for us,” said Hong, 37, adding that while brown rice possesses more nutrients it also requires more chewing to be properly digested.

Enter “obundomi,” which, according to Hong, maintains various nutritional benefits because it still retains its germ and about half of its bran, but since it is slightly more milled than brown rice is easier to eat.

“It tastes more nutty and sweet than white rice,” said Kim, 28, as he put in his two cents on the charms of “obundomi.”

After milling, the leftover husks and bran are combined with brown rice to make a slightly thick, fortifying “obundomi brown rice” tea that is served as a complimentary beverage with each meal. Both the rice tea and rice are the only permanent fixtures of a menu that changes daily.

Hong, who has authored more than seven cookbooks, starred in food shows, and acted as a food stylist for films, draws from a deep reservoir of experience with Ssalgage by Hong Shin-ae, which opened this September.

“I wanted to make a welcoming space where one could grow healthy in mind and spirit by eating food that one could trust,” Hong said of why she decided to focus on the classic Korean meal of rice with banchan (side dishes) and soup.

Hong hits the markets every morning to pick up ingredients that will form the eatery’s sole set menu, says Kim.

“Sometimes, after shooting on set, she will shop again for more ingredients,” Kim added.