Northeastern eats at Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai

Hard to find but worth the effort, Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai feels like a hidden gem that foodies hope no one else has discovered but the steady stream of patrons looking for nosh even during closing hours proves this restaurant is no big secret.

Tuk Tuk can credit its not-so-underground fame to owner Im Dong-hyuk, whose unbridled passion for Thai cuisine forms the backbone of the eatery’s extensive menu and the combination of flavors and fragrances that make dining at Tuk Tuk a vibrant, palate-bending experience.

Owner Im’s interest in Thai food began nearly seven years ago, when he traveled to Thailand for the first time. After that, there was no going back.

“You know, people say while some may never visit Thailand, those who have, never just go once,” the 32-year-old owner said of the strong pull of the country whose cuisine prompted him to open his own eatery in 2011.

Located near Hongdae, Tuk Tuk, which moved to its current spot last April, derives its wide-reaching repertoire from Im, who confessed he compiled dishes he likes together to form “a menu of tasty eats.”

Aware there were many fans of authentic Thai cuisine like himself, Im recruited a crew of three chefs from northeastern Thailand because he wanted to give diners the real deal and, in his opinion, “Thai food is soul food. It is hard to learn on the fly.” 

What diners end up getting is unabashed, full-powered Thai fare, replete with all its fragrant and fiery layers of flavor.

Navigating the multi-page menu can be a challenge to those unacquainted with Thai cuisine, and while some may be tempted to play it safe and go for what is familiar, it would be a shame to miss out on potentially lesser-known delicacies like tom saep en-nuea, a knockout soup with a northeastern pedigree, and pak bung fai daeng, an addictive dish of stir-fried greens.

Perhaps it is because it is whipped up by chefs hailing from northeastern Thailand, but the tom saep en-nuea at Tuk Tuk is a flavor bomb of a dish that amps up its spices in a way that is so intense, it is right on target.

A specialty of the northeastern region Isan, this piquant soup of mushrooms and collagen-rich beef tendons interlaces fragrant notes of lemongrass and lime leaves with lime juice and Thai chilies for a strong interplay of sour, sweet and spicy flavors.

Each spoonful packs a delectable, refreshing wallop that has one tipping the bowl back for every last dreg.

Another great Tuk Tuk dish is pak bung fai daeng, a perennial favorite that, according to Im, can be found most everywhere in Thailand.

A stir fry of greens that are often called water spinach or water morning glory in English, pak bung fai daeng pairs wonderfully with white rice and the fresh, crunchy textures of the greens act as the perfect foil to the rich and savory medley of soy and oyster sauces used to season them.

Tuk Tuk also does full justice to more globally known dishes and drinks like green papaya salad and Thai iced tea as well.

Another northeastern specialty, tom sam Thai features crunchy slivers of green papaya liberally spiced up with fiery chilies and given an extra tier of flavor with peanuts.

Milky Thai iced tea is served up strong and sweet, making it a great way to temper any chili-induced heat. 

Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai

● Location:

B1, 227-37 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (070) 4407-5130

● Hours:

Open Tuesdays through Sundays from noon to 4 p.m., 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., closed Mondays. Will be closed from March 31 to April 15

● Prices:

Weekday lunch set for one costs 15,000 won, tom saep en-nuea 15,000 won, pak bung fai daeng 12,000 won, som tam Thai 12,000 won, and Thai iced tea 5,000 won

By Jean Oh (oh_jean@heraldcorp.com)