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Brunch revisited

Brunch for breakfast, lunch and dinner still popular


In Korea, brunch is not bound by the time of the day. What originally arrived as a breakfast-lunch deal is being enjoyed at all hours.

“Koreans tend to view brunch as a meal that can be enjoyed most any time of day,” said Pancakes Original Story managing director Amy Song.

The popular brunch spot originally served a separate dinner menu when it first opened in Hannam-dong nearly three years ago. Then, into its second year of business, Pancakes Original Story decided to focus on an all-day brunch menu.

According to Song, the tradition of eating rice, soup and side dishes for breakfast has influenced how South Koreans perceive brunch, meaning it is seen less as a breakfast-lunch substitute and more as a spread that one can dig into whenever one wants. 
My Ssong’s corn pancakes with bacon and sausage — just drizzle with maple syrup and dig in. (Park Hyun-koo/The Korea Herald)
My Ssong’s corn pancakes with bacon and sausage — just drizzle with maple syrup and dig in. (Park Hyun-koo/The Korea Herald)

Brunch-and-casual diner My Ssong co-president Lee Song-hee also revealed that many people want to eat brunch at night; hence the establishment’s anytime brunch menu.

In other words, on South Korean turf at least, brunch should not be wholly defined as breakfast-meets-lunch, the word, in Song’s opinion, is a term unto itself, unfettered by a time slot.

However, one definitive trend amongst popular brunch places here is the presence of standard American breakfast fare ― pancakes, waffles, omelets ― on the menu.

In that respect, both Pancakes Original Story and My Ssong fit the mold. Furthermore, not only do both establishments specialize in pancakes and the like, both are fully committed to brunch, serving it in the morning as well as at night.

“I am a morning person so I wanted a place where people like me could go,” My Ssong co-president Lee, 33, explained.

According to Pancakes Original Story’s Song, the 6,800 won breakfast plate that is available from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. on weekdays is popular, signaling that they too attract an early bird crowd. 
Pancakes Original Story puffy garden omelet — the platter comes with  a pancake, housemade sausage patty, white sausage, bacon and home fried potatoes or salad (Lee Sang-sub/The Korea )Herald
Pancakes Original Story puffy garden omelet — the platter comes with  a pancake, housemade sausage patty, white sausage, bacon and home fried potatoes or salad (Lee Sang-sub/The Korea )Herald

Both My Ssong and Pancakes Original Story have been catering to their morning fans and other devoted patrons for around three years now, making them brunch veterans. In fact, fans of Pancakes Original Story will be glad to hear that they are looking to open a second outlet in conjunction with its third anniversary later this year.

Becoming an established brunch spot is not easy, and generally signifies the presence of a signature dish, one that is harder to find elsewhere.

At Pancakes Original Story, the puffy omelette plate is one such platter. The adjective “puffy” does full justice to this egg-confection. A mountainous cloud of fluff, topped with (“cooked” assures Song) egg foam, the omelette is, for lack of a better word, big and tasty.

The garden rendition features pungent blue cheese as well as cheddar, with spinach, bell peppers and mushrooms adding pops of color and flavor to the creation.

At 13,800 won, you get a veritable feast. A velvety buttermilk pancake, herbed potatoes, a housemade brown sausage patty, a strip of bacon and a white sausage come with the omelette, making for a bounteous brunch platter indeed.

As one can derive from the name of this ever-popular spot, the pancakes are good too. There is even a version called “freak” pancakes on the menu, which Song says incorporates cornflakes. The double banana ones feature slices of caramelized banana sprinkled on top of two buttermilk pancakes for a reasonable 6,500 won.

At My Ssong, one of their signature dishes appears to be their cornmeal pancakes. Though the 17,000 won price tag for two with bacon and sausage might cause a few to blink, attempt to polish one off a plate on your own and you might find you got a heftier plate than you bargained for.

How best to describe the two massive, thick, pillowy pancakes that arrive?

The pancakes are dense, moist, rich in corn flavor, but not to the point where it renders them grainy in texture. Crisp bacon and a full pork link give the needed salt factor to diners who like to smother their pancakes in maple syrup.

The added charm is that coffee comes with unlimited free refills of Americano, no extra charge, giving diners a good excuse to linger over their meals in the quaint spot near Dosan Park.

By Jean Oh (oh_jean@heraldcorp.com)
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