Great Korean eats guide

Where to go for good Korean food, sweets and tea


No doubt, some readers are in town for the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit at COEX in Samseong-dong, Seoul.

While here, sampling the food is a must, especially for those who are here for the long haul. Be the stay temporary or permanent, it would be a shame to waste this opportunity to taste authentic hansik.

For those looking for some delicious Korean grub, drinks and desserts, here are some places worth a visit.

Pyeongyang Myeon Ok

Naengmyeon is a classic North Korean cold noodle dish and this famed restaurant in Nonhyeon-dong, Seoul does it full justice.

Chewy noodles fashioned from dough that is 90 percent buckwheat arrive in a huge metal bowl, submerged in cold broth and garnished with half a boiled egg, meat, cucumber and daikon radish. Season it with vinegar and mustard for a lip-smacking, tart and refreshing experience.

The water that the buckwheat noodles have been boiled in is served up in lieu of tea. Warm and nutty, this drink ― called myeonsoo ― is believed to aid digestion.

Also not to be missed are the establishment’s ginormous dumplings ― called mandu in Korean. Massive crescents arrive, glistening and packed with pork, tofu and mung bean sprouts.

Still hungry? Bulgogi is also a great option ― sweet, juicy and tender.

66-2 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul; (02) 549-5378, 549-5500; open from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. daily; naengmyeon costs 10,000 won, one plate of mandu 10,000 won, one half order of three mandu 5,000 won, bulgogi 26,000 won for 200 grams

Heukdonga

The Samseong-dong outlet of Heukdonga ― the original restaurant is on Jeju Island ― is located a short stroll away from COEX and specializes in thick cuts of prized Jeju black pork grilled over hardwood charcoal.

This is a great spot to gather together, share some samgyeopsal (essentially Korean-style bacon) and tip back some drinks.

Heukdonga Samseong Outlet president Kim EQ, 28, says that the marinated pork rib meat is popular among foreigners, but to get the full, uncensored blast of pork, the samgyeopsal (pork belly) and cuts from the shoulder are also good.

Black pork skin accompanies orders of belly, shoulder and neck cuts. Grill the rind ― currently popular amongst women because it is said to be rich in collagen ― to a crisp and enjoy.

Pickled anchovy sauce accompanies the cuts. According to Kim, Jeju Island natives customarily dip their pork into the anchovy sauce.

“We use very good pork so you want to enjoy the flavors of the meat and the fermented anchovies do not mask those flavors,” Heukdonga CEO Lim Jong-hoon explained over the phone.

147-15 1, 2F Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul; (02) 2051-0008, www.blackpigseoul.co.kr; open 11 a.m. to 5 a.m. Monday through Saturdays and till 10 p.m. Sundays; grilled pork costs 16,000 won per order with a two order minimum.


Obil Goong Joong Hansik

Bibimbap is a traditional Korean dish that has been getting a lot of press as a great way to load up on healthy vegetables.

Located right below the City Airport Terminal in Samseong-dong within COEX, Obil Goong Joong Hansik has been serving their bibimbap for over a decade. 

Seven namul (seasoned vegetables), including one made with gim (dried laver), are plated in elegant, colorful heaps and served with a separate bowl of rice that has been sprinkled with black sesame seeds. Soup and various banchan (side dishes) accompany the dish.

“I was inspired by gujeolpan,” said owner Yang Choon-sook, 73, referring to the traditional dish where a platter with nine separate compartments are filled with eight delicacies and thin pancakes.

The effect is colorful and also affords customers the option of eating the vegetables and gim separately if so desired.

Otherwise, customers can pile the namul on over the rice, put in a dollop of gochujang (red pepper paste) and mix.

F-2, B1 City Airport Terminal, Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul; (02) 551-0801; open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. daily, closed March 26 and 27; bibimbap (goldongban) charim costs 8,000 won.

haap

This tteok (rice cake) shop, near Insa-dong in Seoul, serves up delightful renditions of classic Korean desserts.

Helmed by chef Sin Young-il, haap specializes in everything from jeungpyeon (soft, aromatic, slightly bread-like rice cakes made from makgeolli) to Gaeseong-style juak (essentially syrup-drenched, ginger-infused miniature rice donuts).

Jeungpyeon come plain or with a variety of fillings including fig and chestnut.

Baesuk ― a warm beverage made from Korean pear, ginger and honey ― is the perfect accompaniment to haap’s delicate sweets.

198-31, 1F Gwanhoon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul (in between the buildings, towards the back); (070) 4209-0819, www.haap01.com; open from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily; jeungpyeon (filled and plain) and juak cost 2,000 won each, baesuk 4,000 won.

Tea Therapy

Korean medicine doctor Lee Sang-jae developed the fragrant brews served at Tea Therapy, a cafe-style space, in Sinsa-dong, Seoul and at a second shop, Tea Therapy Haengrang, in Anguk-dong.

After accumulating experience in the realm of Oriental medicine, founder Lee ― who has handed the reins of the business over to his wife and is currently teaching at Pusan National University’s School of Medicine ― wanted to make his craft even more accessible to the masses through his teas.

Drawing from traditional herbs, he not only focused on the ingredients themselves but also on flavor and aroma while creating Tea Therapy’s brews.

One of the most popular teas, the Weight Loss blend, combines the zingy scent of dried tangerine peel with the toasty notes of buckwheat, while the Stress-Free blend imparts the refreshing scent of mint.

The menu provides descriptions of the teas and a color-coded chart can be used to custom-select brews.

Tea Therapy Haengrang, 6-1, Anguk-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul; (02) 730-7507; open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; teas cost 5,000 won to 8,000 won with a 30 percent discount for tea to-go

Tea Therapy, 1F, 616, Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul; (02) 518-7506

By Jean Oh (oh_jean@heraldcorp.com)